Crossing the Towering Eifl

This was my first attempt at walking a doubleheader. The main reason for this is that I now have a camper van. This allows me to stay over a couple of days now that the distances from home are getting greater. I found a campsite roughly in the middle of the two walks, just a stone’s throw from the Wales Coast Path. The UK campsites are just starting to quieten at the end of the season as the schools re-open. I still had to wait to get availability though into a week with much less favourable weather forecasts. This is Wales in Autumn though and “weather” and “predictable” are not words that go together here.

I had approached this trip with some trepidation. This was the maiden voyage for the van and I had only just got the awning out of the box. I am very much a newbie camper and was sure that I would forget something vital or commit some camping faux pas. Just to add to that was the route itself. Between Trefor and Pen-y-Sarlon Farm Campsite was Yr Eifl. Despite 100 years of people cutting chunks off it, the path through its twin peaks still hit about 1000ft. The route card showed 2000ft of climbing in all. My local walks are pretty much pan flat, so I had doubts about my capabilities on the climbs. From Trefor last time out, it looked formidably steep. The weather could play its part too. When I arrived, the peaks were disappearing into clouds. I didn’t want to walk unfamiliar steep paths on my own in zero visibility. I would have to wait for the weather on the day to decide what to do.

Planned route between Trefor and Pistyll

Crowds gather on the Great Orme to see the 2021 Tour of Britain cycle race

I got the chance to test myself the week before. The Tour of Britain Cycle Race had a stage ending on the summit of the Great Orme. There is a steep footpath leading from West Shore towards the summit. It’s only about half the altitude of Yr Eifl but would serve as a test. I made it up and it gave me some confidence. It was also a great event to attend with a fantastic atmosphere.

I arrived at Penisarlon Farm on a Monday afternoon. My pitch was a flat terrace about halfway down the steep hillside of the camping field. It was dry but didn’t look like it would stay that way. I got everything hooked up and then battled with the awning for an hour or so. A practiced hand should take about 15 minutes! Still, I got it up eventually and was just sitting down for some dinner when the rain arrived. The forecast said it would be light rain setting in well into the next day. It turned out to be a lot heavier than that and blowing hard too. I went to bed to the rhythmic drumming of rain on a metal roof. When I awoke early on Tuesday morning, it had gone quiet. At least where the weather was concerned. If you have ever wondered what animal makes the best alarm clock out of cockerel, goose or donkey I am happy to confirm it is donkey by a fair margin.

The first job was to check the awning. How had it faired under the downpour - was it still even there? I am glad to report it was still there with only a few minor leaks. Looking at Yr Eifl, there were a few wisps of cloud but it looked like the bad weather had blown through quicker than expected. It looked safe to attempt it. I decided to walk straight from the site towards Trefor. The upside of that was the slope was gentler and there were a couple of points I could bale out if conditions changed or my limbs gave out on me. The downside was a lot of walking prior to the main ascent and no clear plan for getting home if I made it to Trefor.

I headed up the road out of Pistyll until I found an intersecting path. It took me past the little Church of St Buenos. Like its larger namesake in Clynnog Fawr, this is another medieval pilgrim stop on the journey to Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli). From here, the path tracks through open fields of cows and sheep before climbing up the headland of Penrhyn Glas. Like much of the area, the profile of the rock showed signs of quarrying. As you round the headland, the view opens up again towards Yr Eifl and the disused quarry and port of Porth-y-Nant. It really is stunning despite the efforts of generations of quarrymen. A long, crescent beach arcs round between the commanding headlands. The morning sun was now out picking out interesting details in its light. It was a good place to stop for a break. At this point, I realised that I had not got my water and snacks out of the fridge. I had decided it was safe to leave them in there till the last moment - WRONG! Cursing my failing memory, I had no choice but to soldier on. It might mean bailing on getting to Trefor and having to detour to Llithfain for supplies.

Path down to the beach, try and spot the startled goat.

The path leads down the hillside to that crescent beach and its derelict quarry buildings. It’s a little challenging if you are not good with heights (like me). It can be steep and narrow in parts. I think a walking pole or two would have been handy. I like to keep my hands free because of the photography but it would have given me more confidence. Most of it is open but, every so often, you find yourself going through a little dell with a waterfall or a tunnel of tangled tree branches. The view dominates and, on the hazy horizon, I could just about make out the Anglesey lighthouses of Llanddwyn and South Stack through my binoculars. I reached a plateau in the path about halfway down to the beach. As I approached the edge of the next steep descent, a pair of long horns started to loom up in front of me. About 18 inches of horn appeared before the head of what they were attached to - a feral goat. He appeared even more surprised to see me than I was to see him. Much to my relief, his response was to hightail it in the other direction and not to butt me off the plateau. I scrambled down to the beach with considerably less grace and speed than the goat had.

The derelict buildings were interesting to photograph and it’s always nice to get down to the shore for an old seaside-town lad like myself. It did mean that I would have to start from sea-level though to get to 1000ft. I trudged up the more consistent concrete path on the other side. There seemed to be a few folks making their way down and I wondered what was on the other side of the fence at the top. The map said a place called Nant Gwrtheyrn “Language Centre” in brackets. As I crested the rise what I saw was a cafe. Not just a cafe, but one with people seated outside. This meant it was the very best kind - a cafe that was open! Given my waterless/snackless state, I did wonder if it was a mirage. I ordered a scone and a latte and considerably reduced their stock of little bottles of water. Fortified by scone calories and a caffeine hit, Trefor was back on.

The road climbs up from Nant Gwrtheyn — The road climbs up from Nant Gwrtheyrn

Nant Gwrtheyrn is an interesting place. The manor house and workers’ cottages have been converted into a Welsh Language and Heritage Centre. Displays in front of the cafe give information about the history of the quarries and some local legends. They have done a very nice job on the conversion and its in a fantastic spot if you are prepared to make the journey. And what a journey it is. Out of the car park, the road heads up with an unforgiving but consistent gradient through woodland. It is well surfaced and not too narrow.

As it clears the woodland, its starts to zig zag around the hill but always climbing. As you look back, the view keeps improving. The last zig, or is it zag, opens up a different aspect looking South West over the length of the Lleyn Peninsula. At last the road starts to flatten and straighten out. I saw an EV heading down the hill. I stifled a desire to shout “Maximum regen!” as it passed me.

Standing stones in the car park above Llithfaen

You come to a large car park with some carved standing stones. The road carries on to Llithfain but here is where the Wales Coast Path departs from the road and heads between the twin peaks. Nestled under the left peak is an old quarry building and a cell tower. The path heads steadily up a wide gravel path through heathland. Part way up and you notice the sky is full of activity. Dozens of swallows appear from the heather and zoom overhead presumably hoovering up the last of the summer bugs before heading South.

The climb up between the peaks of Yr Eifl

The view East from the top of the path at Yr Eifl

I met a couple walking in the other direction. We stopped to compare notes on what was ahead for each other. They had nearly completed the Wales Coast Path bar a couple of sections. They told me the path wasn’t too bad ahead. As you reach the high point of the path the view East opens up. I could see Trefor way down below and, despite the haze, back along past walks as far as Conwy and beyond.

Navigation is a bit tricky here. You need to keep an eye out from where the WCP deviates from the old quarry roads. I didn’t and had to backtrack. However, I did get some interesting pictures of the derelict quarry buildings as compensation.

A feral goat watches from the top of a derelict quarry building

Back on the right path which is now much narrower than on the ascent. It starts to zig zag across fields and down little paths. It is quite well signed but I was, once again, very glad of the OS app.

Just before you reach Trefor, the path heads North West and back to the coast. Once at the coast, the path tracks East along the cliff edge. There was enough evidence of land slip for me not to venture any nearer to the edge. Occasional small inlets give a view of the cliffs. I scanned them looking for seals or even dolphins that had been reported in the area but to no avail. There was plenty of birdlife to be seen though.

Eventually you come to a port area with a large concrete pier. A few people were fishing or taking in the view along its length. Others played along the beach it protected. An old tractor busied itself moving boats to and from the water.

A vintage tractor moves boats along the shore line protected by stone pier.

Now at sea level you have to start climbing along the steep roads back into Trefor. I also had to figure out how to get home. I saw a bus stop but it only showed routes to Pwllheli (on the South side of the peninsula) or Caernarfon. The buses seemed to be hourly and the next was imminent. I pressed on looking for a shop to replenish my water supply. My campsite has some taxi numbers on its website. I eventually found a shop right at the top of the town. As I approached a taxi stopped to drop off a customer. I asked the driver if they were free but they told me all the taxis in the area would probably be tied up doing school runs. They gave me a card for their dispatch anyway. I bought some water in the shop and tried the number but she was right - all booked up. I headed up hill looking for another bus stop not knowing whether it passed me while I was shopping. I found one and waited nervously. It was warm and I was tired - an hour would feel like a very long time. Fortunately, it turned up after just a few minutes. I asked the driver if I could get a bus to Pistyll from Pwllheli. He said I could get to Nefyn, not ideal, but no mountain to cross.

So off I headed in precisely the wrong direction but at least I could sit down while I did it. Pwllheli is one of the largest towns in the area and on the railway line. We used to come here on school summer trips to Butlins Holiday Camp. I had not visited for many years. We passed the railway station before we got to the bus station but there were no taxis in the rank. The bust driver told me to take the Number 8. It was sitting there in a holding area waiting for its departure time slot in about 5 minutes. The bus station was packed with young college students. I looked down the line of other buses in the holding area and there was one with a sign to Pistyll - it was the 27. “Saved” I thought and I checked the other stand for one with the route 27 timetable. I found it and it was also leaving in 5 minutes - happy days!

As the 27 bus pulled forward out of the rank I was horrified to see its sign change to Llithfain. I asked the driver if he was stopping at Pistyll and he told me they alternated every hour. I would have to wait for that one. Let’s just say I was disappointed. I was keen to get back. I was tired and I wanted to watch the Apple event at 6pm. I decided to walk round to the station and see if there was a taxi. If there wasn’t I’d look for somewhere to eat to kill time til the bus came. Two taxis were now sitting on the rank. I asked the driver if he would take me to Pistyll. He said he would. I asked him if he took card payments. He said he didn’t. Cash only? I hadn’t used cash since the pandemic started. Some of the notes in my wallet had become dear friends! He directed me to an ATM round the corner in the station. I got some crispy new notes out and we were off. It cost me about 10 times what the bus would but I was glad to be definitely getting home. I made a little dinner, watched Tim Cook say “Good morning!” and so on. Then came the drama of a dog slipping its leash and chasing the chickens round the campsite before its desperate owner intercepted it. I did wonder about taking the awning down while it was dry. But I couldn't motivate my tired limbs and the forecast was good for the next day. I chose to sit in the cab and watch the sun slip below the Irish Sea instead.